Climbing in Malaga - St Anton de Pinares West
St Anton de Pinares is located on the outskirts of Malaga and consists of two crags with quite different features, however they both share the sea views and the exceptional weather that Malaga receives. Even when it is raining and cold twenty miles inland it can be warm and sunny at Malaga.
The two crags can be refered to as St Anton West and St Anton South East.
St Anton West is the larger of the two crags with routes from 15 to 35m long and is descibed below.
The main orientation of St Anton West is westwards and so the crag is good when the sun is strong, The rock varies a lot in quality, however all the established climbs are solid. The climbing varies from steep slabs and walls on well featured grey rock to pumpy numbers on unusually compact orange rock. The grades are well spread and range from 6a to 7c.
It is a pretty good crag for airport days because the parking spot is pretty remote on a single track dirt road and the car can be seen from the crag, The airport is about 15 - 20 minutes from the crag.
The topos below outline the routes in the various sectors.
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Grades |
6a+ to 8? |
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Height of Routes |
18 - 35m |
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Orientation |
West and North West |
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Approach |
5 - 10 minutes |
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Rock |
Limestone |
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Grades |
6a to 8? |
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Height of Routes |
18 - 25m |
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Orientation |
West and North West |
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Approach |
10 minutes |
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Rock |
Limestone |
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Grades |
6b to 7a |
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Height of Routes |
15 - 25m |
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Orientation |
SW |
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Approach |
10 minutes |
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Rock |
Limestone |
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Grades |
6c+ to 7b |
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Height of Routes |
20 - 27m |
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Orientation |
SW |
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Approach |
10 minutes |
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Rock |
Limestone |
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Grades |
6b to 7b |
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Height of Routes |
35m |
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Orientation |
N |
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Approach |
15 minutes |
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Rock |
Limestone |
There is full information on how to get to these crags on the main Rock Climbing Company website
This link also contain directions to El Torcalito - a small, rainproof bouldering area in Malaga itself.